Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Leiden to Amsterdam

It was a cold overcast day, forecast maximum 16 deg. The ride from Leiden out to Katwijk took us mostly through quite nice residential areas. We were trying to follow the numbered location system, but a few times a sign was missing or we missed it, and we did a few extra km as a result.
Leiden and Katwijk are both on the Rhine, and Katwijk is where some of the Rhine water flows into the North Sea, so we stopped at the mouth of the river, which is completely controlled by a Dutch sea wall/gate structure. We had started riding along the Rhine from its source in Switzerland in 2011, so this felt like a bit of a completion.
From Katwijk we had a very enjoyable fast run up the coast along the LF1 route to Zandvoort. This section of the route is two way sealed bike path running through the dunes and bush just behind the beach. It was really nice to stretch the legs for a while. We saw quite a few groups of road bike riders going the other way, but if there were any going our way they didn't catch us.
When we finally stopped (just after a wildrooster) at Zandvoort to study the map for the next section, a road bike rider pulled up just after us and was very complimentary of our speed with loaded touring bikes.
For some days, probably starting in northern Belgium somewhere, we had occasionally ridden past a sign warning us of "wildrooster". We had of course kept a wary eye for any such dangerous sounding birds. It took us a while to realise that the signs always seemed to immediately precede something like a cattle grid but with much smaller gaps. Presumably these are put there to keep the wild roosters in.
After Zandvoort we made our way to Harlem (via numbers 79, 77, 83, 82, 81 & 84!). We rode into the city centre and had a look around then did a tour of a windmill.
The ride from Harlem to Amsterdam, following the red signs, was mostly a pretty fast straight run parallel to a freeway. When we got close to the centre we turned onto the LF20 which we had worked out would take us around south of the city centre to close to our B&B. This route took us through some kilometres of beautiful parks, including Vondelpark and Rembrandtpark.
When we rode out the end of Vondelpark we plunged into cycling chaos, with pedestrians, bikes, motorbikes, cars and trams everywhere.
We made our way without too much trouble to the Parkzijde B&B where we had booked a room for three nights. Parkzijde is a four story terrace across the road from Oosterpark, just a short tram ride from the city centre. The owners live in the top floors. The room we had booked was The Garden Room which "is situated at the rear of the house overlooking our garden and has access to its own private conservatory" (from Parkzijde website),
We rang the bell and shortly after we were greeted by Bernard. After the initial greeting, Bernard continued to stand squarely in the doorway, and commented "I see you arrived with the bikes". Bernard went on to explain that there was no secure place to store our bikes, and that if we left them outside, no matter how well locked, they would certainly be stolen.
Bernard seemed quite prepared to turn us away rather than allow our bikes into his precious building.
Once we got over the initial shock that this was happening in Amsterdam of all places, we suggested to Bernard that perhaps we could store our bikes in the garden, which we knew our room overlooked.
But what if it rains, and our wet dirty bikes have to be carried through the hallway?
We assured Bernard that we would not use our bikes while we were there (quite happily after the last few km riding through Amsterdam). A solution had been found, and Bernard, still somewhat reluctantly, watched us carry our bikes through to the garden in the rear.
In all our travels with bikes in Europe, staying at probably over a hundred different B&Bs, hotels and hostels, this has never happened before.

Our detailed route through Germany, Luxembourg, Belgium and Holland.

1 comment:

  1. Hmmm, I wonder how your 3 night stay with Bernard turned out? Not a good start! And as you say, in Amsterdam of ALL places? What planet was HE on? We will HAVE to catch up when you get back. Sounds like a great trip. I am sure MF.& I would get lost with all those numbered paths - we get lost even withOUT that degree of difficulty :) Pam

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